jeed
02-21-2010, 01:15 AM
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES YOU MAY HAVE CAUSED. THIS IS JUST FOR YOUR INFORMATIONAL USE. IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS, YOU ARE AT YOUR OWN RISK. PLEASE SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF THINGS AFOREMENTIONED.
Materials:
[1] 15' RED 4 Gauge Wire (available at any audio store $3 per foot) $45
[1] 3' BLK 4 Gauge Wire $5 at Kragen
[1] Braille Aluminum Battery Mount Tray* $75
[1] Braille Lightweight 17lb B2317 Battery (13.23V, 785CA)* $150
[3] Brass Terminal Post (comes in packs of 2, you need 6) $10 at Kragen
[1] Blow Torch
[1] Hammer
[1] Wire Cutter
[1] Sauder Wire
[1] MISC. (Screws, Generic Tools, etc..)
---------------
COST: $285 w/ Braille setup or $60+battery tray/hooks (~$15)
*optional as i went with a lightweight battery
---------------
1. Remove existing power cable & ground to chassis
So what i did was removed the existing power cable in the engine bay that connects from battery to fusebox (short 1/2' cable). Shortened the Ground cable and attached 1 terminal post to it with sauder inside. Heated it up then hammered it down shut (if you can clamp it, you're a champ). I found a spot to ground it to the chassis relatively where the existing battery tray was, so i sanded it down to bare metal to give it optimal grounding. Thus bolting the ground in.
2. Mounting Battery & Tray
I placed my battery in the passenger side of the trunk towards the fuel filler neck. I used generic self taping screws to hold down the battery mount / tray. If you're using a generic tray w/ J-Hooks, please review those instructions for mounting needs.
3. Mounting your Killswitch
You need to decide where you want it, generally you want to be able to have access of it from the outside of the vehicle, many put it on the license plate area on the trunk lid, key holes, etc... I placed mine in the Fuel cap so its hidden, yet accessible from the outside. I mounted it with generic bolts & nuts and used a drill to make the holes.
4. Feeding the Red Cable
Now what you want to do is take measurements, relative to where you mounted the battery & killswitch. The easiest method is install one end with the terminal post, install it on the fusebox & feed it through the firewall, under the sidepanels & backseats into the trunk. From here, you will now know how much you have left to work with. I ended up cutting 2' off to reach from Killswitch to battery & the remaining 13' for killswitch to fusebox.
5. Grounding the battery
Now that you have the entire power cable installed & the original ground wire grounded to the chassis, you need to ground your battery to the chassis. For my car, it was easily found with the existing groundings provided by ford with those pesky green colored bolts.
6. You're finished!
Make sure you double check everything, and its all secured. turn on your battery killswitch, and start your car. if everything went well, it will crank right up no problem.
i'll get some pics for you guys tomorrow forsure :cheers:
Materials:
[1] 15' RED 4 Gauge Wire (available at any audio store $3 per foot) $45
[1] 3' BLK 4 Gauge Wire $5 at Kragen
[1] Braille Aluminum Battery Mount Tray* $75
[1] Braille Lightweight 17lb B2317 Battery (13.23V, 785CA)* $150
[3] Brass Terminal Post (comes in packs of 2, you need 6) $10 at Kragen
[1] Blow Torch
[1] Hammer
[1] Wire Cutter
[1] Sauder Wire
[1] MISC. (Screws, Generic Tools, etc..)
---------------
COST: $285 w/ Braille setup or $60+battery tray/hooks (~$15)
*optional as i went with a lightweight battery
---------------
1. Remove existing power cable & ground to chassis
So what i did was removed the existing power cable in the engine bay that connects from battery to fusebox (short 1/2' cable). Shortened the Ground cable and attached 1 terminal post to it with sauder inside. Heated it up then hammered it down shut (if you can clamp it, you're a champ). I found a spot to ground it to the chassis relatively where the existing battery tray was, so i sanded it down to bare metal to give it optimal grounding. Thus bolting the ground in.
2. Mounting Battery & Tray
I placed my battery in the passenger side of the trunk towards the fuel filler neck. I used generic self taping screws to hold down the battery mount / tray. If you're using a generic tray w/ J-Hooks, please review those instructions for mounting needs.
3. Mounting your Killswitch
You need to decide where you want it, generally you want to be able to have access of it from the outside of the vehicle, many put it on the license plate area on the trunk lid, key holes, etc... I placed mine in the Fuel cap so its hidden, yet accessible from the outside. I mounted it with generic bolts & nuts and used a drill to make the holes.
4. Feeding the Red Cable
Now what you want to do is take measurements, relative to where you mounted the battery & killswitch. The easiest method is install one end with the terminal post, install it on the fusebox & feed it through the firewall, under the sidepanels & backseats into the trunk. From here, you will now know how much you have left to work with. I ended up cutting 2' off to reach from Killswitch to battery & the remaining 13' for killswitch to fusebox.
5. Grounding the battery
Now that you have the entire power cable installed & the original ground wire grounded to the chassis, you need to ground your battery to the chassis. For my car, it was easily found with the existing groundings provided by ford with those pesky green colored bolts.
6. You're finished!
Make sure you double check everything, and its all secured. turn on your battery killswitch, and start your car. if everything went well, it will crank right up no problem.
i'll get some pics for you guys tomorrow forsure :cheers: